I've had so much fun this summer turning all those strawberries and raspberries into jars of jam, I've decided not to hang up my preserving pan just yet. And I'm not letting the berries hog the jammy limelight, either – I'm spreading my conserving passions out into the vegetable garden. If nothing else, it's a new way to deal with the gluts of courgettes, tomatoes and squashes.
I make tangy, spicy chutneys every year, but with so many vegetables having their own inherent sweetness, it seems ashame not to harness it in sweet preserves, too. By that I mean something not so much for the cheeseboard or cold meat spread – more for the breakfast toast or teatime scone.
Other cultures do it – carrot jam has always been popular in the Middle East. We've even done it here in the past, too – Mrs Beeton included a recipe for carrot jam in her Book Of Household Management of 1861. Admittedly, with her recipe she hopes to fool the taster into thinking it's apricot, but I'm not suggesting that level of artifice. The carrots in my jam are out and proud.
Sweet veg, such as carrots and squash or pumpkins, or delicate ones such as courgettes, take on spices beautifully – ginger, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon all add depth and cut through the sugar in a beguiling way.
And yes, OK, I know tomatoes are technically a fruit. We normally use them as a savoury ingredient, but their aroma and texture lends itself to sweet preparations, too. Today's chilli jam is actually more condiment than conserve (try it dotted on grilled goat's cheese), but the green tomato and lemon marmalade is definitely one for the breakfast tray and a great way to use up unripe toms.
For new jam makers, the tyranny of the setting point can seem daunting, but don't be put off. Most jams reach their setting point around 104C and you can use an instant read thermometer to test this. But I prefer to use the evidence of my eyes and the chilled saucer test. Before you put the jam on to boil, place a couple of saucers in the fridge. When the jam has thickened and is making gloopy bubbling noises in the pot, drop a teaspoonful on to the saucer and leave it for aminute. Push it with your finger and if it wrinkles, it's done.
If your jam is quite chunky (see today's courgette and carrot recipes) or you've added chopped herbs just before the end, let it sit for 10 minutes before you put it into jars. It will thicken a bit and the pieces and/or herbs will be evenly distributed.
Make sure the jars you use are scrupulously clean and still warm when you put the jams into them. Ido this in one of two ways. Either Igive them a good wash and rinse, then put them in a low oven to dry, or I run them through the dishwasher, hoping the jam reaches its setting point while the jars are still hot from the drying cycle. Then I spoon the jam into the warm jars and seal them while still hot, either with a lid or a cellophane cover, which helps to prevent the growth of bacteria.
And that's it. The veg plot's finest,preserved for delayed, jammygratification.
Carrot jam
Delicious on hot toast or crumpets. Makes about three 450g jars.
1kg carrots, peeled and grated
Finely grated rind and strained juice of 2 lemons
Finely grated rind and strained juice of 1 orange
900g granulated sugar
2-3 cinnamon sticks
6 cloves
1 tsp grated nutmeg
Put the carrots, juices, zest and sugar into a preserving pan, and stir. Tie the cinnamon and cloves into a small circle of muslin, tie with kitchen string and place in the middle of the carrots. Leave overnight to macerate.
Pour over about 900ml water, add the nutmeg, warm and stir until any sugar crystals have dissolved. Bring to the boil. Boil until it reaches its setting point, about 30-40 minutes; test to see if it's ready using a chilled saucer (see above). Carefully fish out the spice bag. Cool for 10 minutes, then pour into warm, sterilised jars and cover with lids or waxed paper discs and cellophane covers while still hot. Store in a cool, dry place and use within one year.
Green tomato marmalade
Add chopped crystallised ginger to this if you like, though it's good just as it is. Makes about four 450g jars.
5 lemons
1.5kg green tomatoes, cored and cut into 5mm dice
1.7kg granulated sugar
Use a sharp peeler to remove lemon zest in long, thin strips, being careful not to remove any pith, then cut zest into thin strips. Fill a small pan with about 250ml water, bring to the boil, add zest and simmer for two minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water and reserve.
Peel the pith from the lemons, removing as much as you can, then roughly chop the flesh, reserving the pips. Wrap them in a little circle of muslin and tie with kitchen string.
Put the tomatoes into a preserving pan with the lemon zest and flesh, and sugar. Give it a good stir and leave to macerate overnight, then add the bag of pips and 700ml water. Stir over a low heat until any remaining sugar crystals have dissolved. Raise the heat, bring to a rolling boil and boil until the setting point is reached – about 30-40 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes, then pour into jars and store as in previous recipe.
Pumpkin and ginger jam
The sweetness of the pumpkin goes beautifully with the gentle heat of the ginger. Makes four 280g jars.
1kg pumpkin or butternut squash, weight when peeled and seeds removed, cut into 5mm cubes
150g crystallised ginger, roughlychopped
1 tsp ground ginger
900g granulated sugar
Juice and finely grated zest of alemon
Juice and finely grated zest of asmall orange
Put the pumpkin or squash in apreserving pan with both gingers, the sugar, lemon and orange zest; stir well and leave overnight to macerate. When you're ready to cook it, add 100ml water, give everything a good stir and place the pan over a low heat. Cook gently, stirring, until any remaining sugar crystals have dissolved. Add the lemon and orange juice, bring to theboil and let it bubble away until itreaches the setting point, about 25-30 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes, then pour into jars and store as in previous recipe.
Tomato and chilli jam
Using four chillies makes this avery spicy jam – add fewer for a milder version. Serve with strong cheddars or soft goat's cheeses, or thin it with hot water and use it as aglaze for grilled orroasted pork orlamb. Makes aboutthree 450g jars.
1kg ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
1 thumb of ginger, finely minced
2-4 red chillies, halved, membranes and seeds removed, finely sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely sliced
2 star anise
600g granulated sugar
200ml cider vinegar
Warm tomatoes, ginger, chillies, garlic and star anise in a preserving pan with the sugar and vinegar, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer, stirring regularly, for about 20 minutes or until the jam has thickened, then pour into jars and store as in previous recipe.
Courgette and lemon jam
This jam has a delicate flavour and is delicious on scones or in thick Greek yoghurt. Add lemon verbena if you can find some, but it's good without it, too. Makes about four 450g jars.
1kg courgettes, topped and tailed, and cut into 5mm dice
1kg granulated sugar
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
Juice of 1 lemon
3 tbsp finely shredded lemon verbena leaves (optional)
Put the courgettes into a preserving pan with the sugar and lemon zest. Stir and leave overnight to macerate.
Pour in 250ml water and warm over medium heat, stirring until any remaining sugar crystals have dissolved. Pour in the lemon juice, stir and bring to the boil. Boil until the setting point is reached, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in lemon verbena if using and cool for 10 minutes, then pour into jars and store as in previous recipe.
